In Talsi, a town's layout can be the main reason to keep walking. Two lakes sit among slopes and small streets, so the view changes as you move between the water and the higher ground. Its Latvian description, deviņu pakalnu pilsēta, means the town of nine hills.
This part of Kurzeme suits a slower visit. The interest lies in the relationship between the landscape, older buildings and local stories. A museum or a map adds context, but you do not need to approach the hills as a timed circuit.
Two lakes, different perspectives
Lake Talsi is closely connected with the old centre. From the lakeside you can look towards the church and houses above; from higher streets you see the same buildings set against the water. A promenade makes the lake a useful starting point for an easy first walk.
Vilkmuižas ezers, the other lake, has an archaeological history. Medieval objects recovered from it connect the area with the ancient Curonians and their burial practices. The museum is the place to learn about those finds, rather than treating the lake as a place to search for objects yourself.
The nine hills
Tiguļu kalns
Tiguļu Hill is associated with Talsi Regional Museum and its park setting. The museum provides a useful introduction to the area's history, nature and cultural life. Allow time for the grounds as well as the indoor visit.
Sauleskalns
The name is commonly translated as Sun Hill. It is connected with outdoor performance and gathering, and its elevated setting can make a pleasant stop towards evening. Check the local programme if you want to attend an event.
Talsu pilskalns
The Talsi Castle Mound is an important link with the town's earlier settlement. Its value is in the historic site and the view rather than a standing palace. Local tales add another layer, but legends should be distinguished from archaeological evidence.
Baznīckalns
Church Hill takes its name from the Lutheran church. The church and nearby streets are part of the familiar view across the lake. Treat worship and private entrances with respect, particularly if visiting during a service.
Dzirnavkalns
Mill Hill recalls earlier uses of the high ground. Its name makes sense when thinking of a town whose landscape offered different places for settlement, work and observation. Local history displays can explain how those uses changed.
Ķēniņkalns
King's Hill carries a story associated with the Curonian ruler Lamekin. In the legend, people bring earth in hats and aprons to form the hill. It is a story about the place's meaning, rather than a literal account of how the landform developed.
Vilkmuižas kalns
This hill is connected with the manor name Vilkmuiža and the nearby lake. The name is often rendered in English as Wolf Manor Hill. A walking map helps relate the hill to the water and the surrounding streets.
Krievragkalns
The hill's history is linked with an Orthodox church and its land. It is another reminder that Talsi's neighbourhoods have different histories. The town is easier to understand when its slopes are seen as inhabited places as well as viewpoints.
Leču kalns
Leču Hill adds another stop to the town's network of recreational and commemorative spaces. A longer walk can include it, but there is no need to reach every named hill if a shorter route suits your day better.
Art, stories and an ordinary town
Talsi's landscape has been a subject for artists, and local exhibitions provide another way to look at it. Ask the tourism information centre about current displays and cultural activities. A small town's events calendar can change considerably through the year.
Leave time for its working streets as well as its scenic views. Shops, cafes, homes and local institutions are part of what you are seeing. Avoid expecting every doorway to be a visitor attraction or every resident to perform a traditional way of life.
Plan an unhurried visit
Choose shoes for slopes and uneven paths. A short distance on a map can involve more climbing than expected, while winter ice or wet leaves can change access. Stay on land beside frozen lakes unless an officially managed activity is available.
Confirm transport, museum opening hours and any accommodation before travelling from Riga. For food, look at what local kitchens are serving rather than expecting a particular regional dish on every menu. A lake walk, a few hills, the museum and a meal can provide a full day without rushing through all of Talsi's stories at once.